Tea for two at a castle

From the time I started planning my trip to Scotland, I have been dreaming about this day. High tea at Edinburgh Castle. I didn’t even give Charlene an option. But I’ve started half way through the day so let me back up.

After yesterday’s sunshine we were a little disappointed in the light rain today, but it really wasn’t more than a bit of a mist, kind of like Vancouver rain. And it had stopped by the time we were at the Edinburgh Castle end of the Royal Mile.

We started out just after 10 – having let ourselves have a wee lay-in this morning – and slowly made our way along the Royal Mile. There were already crowds along the streets and sidewalks, people wearing all manner of rain wear, or not, or dangerously carrying umbrellas.

This young lad wasn’t the best bagpiper we have encountered but he certainly looked the part! I love the sound of the pipes and have really enjoyed hearing them pretty much everywhere we’ve gone. There was one young girl playing the fiddle further along the street but it was too crowded with people to get a picture.

We wandered in and out of some shops, and of course found some samples of our McKinnon Tartan. We both bemoaned the fact that with only carry on luggage, shopping to any extent is quite out of the picture. So frig magnets it is. As we wandered we poked our heads down various “closes” running off of the Royal Mile. They are so intriguing pathways through the buildings lining the roadway, some leading to courtyards and some heading down what looks like endless stairs. We have been intrigued as well by the multi levels of the city. It seems quite confusing but I guess you get to know what close or road takes you to the right place.

We wondered down a side road off the Royal Mile and found a lookout over a lively street below. It was Victoria Street in the GrassMarket area. We went down the staircase to the street level and walked down this vividly coloured street full of restaurants and shops. I’m not particularly into Harry Potter but if you were, there are lots of spots to check out. The pub where JK Rowling wrote most of the books was lost to a fire a few years ago, but there is still a store of Harry Potter themed things and some other references to places that inspired the books.

Then it was time to head up to the castle for our 1 pm entry time. You pretty much have to pre-order timed tickets for entry into the castle, for guided tours, or for tea at the Tea Rooms and I got our tickets ages ago. Today, the castle entrance was sold out long before noon.

This large area before the castle entrance is used for various concerts and the famous Edinburgh Tattoo which happens in August. It rather takes away from the entrance to the castle but I can imagine it provides a great venue.

Despite getting a map and directions from the info desk as to how to find the Tea Room, we had to ask another staff member once we were further along into the castle. It is huge, with winding pathways and many levels. We were lots early, so stopped to see some of the buildings along the way.

The Scottish National War Memorial building was one of my favourites but no photography is allowed inside so don’t have pictures. It has various panels for various different wars in which the Scots have participated. It’s beautifully done. One in five Scots who enlisted during the First World War never came home.

Then it was time to head to the Tea Room in the Queen Anne Building across the courtyard. The interior of the building was modern in start contrast to the rest of the castle we’d seen so far. It was a large room, and not even half full, so guess High Tea isn’t everyone’s “thing”. But my goodness did I enjoy it. Every last morsel on the stand was so tasty and presented in such an artist manner.

Among my favourites were the Cranley Farm coronation chicken finger with cucumber ribbon, Black Crowdie and leek quiche topped with Katy Roger’s cream (whoever she is) (the wee round on on the middle shelf didn’t look like much but was so full of flavours it was amazing), Sticky Toffee, and the orange macaroon which was a sunny burst of flavour in my mouth. The scones and clotted cream and preserves were delightful as one would expect. The Empress Hotel in Victoria comes close to this experience, but Edinburgh Castle might be just a tad cooler location.

After our tea, we waddled out and made sure to see the Scottish Crown Jewels, called “The Honours”. There was a queue but it moved quickly. In an area with thick vault doors on either side, and displayed behind thick glass were the oldest Crown Jewels in Britain: the Crown, Sceptre and Sword of State used in the coronation of Mary Queen of Scots, in 1543. The Crown Jewels were removed from the castle to keep them from Oliver Cromwell’s army and in 1707 they were locked in a chest and sealed away only to be discovered by Sir Walter Scott. Again, no photography was allowed.

The tour then went through the Royal Apartments and the Birthplace of King James VI, son of Mary Queen of Scots. The room where King James VI was born was tiny and because of the way the walls were set, they had mirrors to show you around the corner, but I couldn’t see much, if anything, in the room.

This fireplace in the living area of the living quarters was outstanding. It is hard to get perspective but it was the full height of a room that had unusually high ceilings.

We wandered around the various outside walls and fortified areas and stopped to have our picture taken at this particular canon, because it was aimed almost right at our hotel!

One thing that struck me wandering through the castle was how well they have presented the castle grounds. There are grass patches and flowers where available and greenery where it can be used. The front of the National War Memorial is a good example. We also talked today about how clean Edinburgh and really all the places we’ve travelled on this trip have been. Especially for such a windy place.

We had originally thought we might be able to climb up Arthur’s Seat, but by the end of the trip we decided the increase in elevation just required too much time and energy and we’d have to give up seeing something else.

Different parts of the Castle were added at different times. The Great Hall was completed in 1511 for King James IV. It has beautiful beams in the ceiling and a wooden roof. In the picture of the Great Hall you can see a black square to the right of the fireplace and half way up the wall. This was a window from the King’s apartment so he could keep an eye on what was happening in the Hall. The room was adorned with all sorts of armour and swords, guns and pistols. The King, however, died in battle in 1513 so he didn’t have long to enjoy this Hall.

St Margaret’s Chapel is a lovely, very wee Chapel, and the oldest building in Edinburgh (1130). They still hold weddings and Christenings here.

The firing of the One O’clock gun dates back to 1861 and there was a huge crowd to witness its firing today while we were on our way up to tea. This gun is obviously not from 1861. In 2001 this gun was installed.

Our legs done in for the day, we wandered a different route back to our hotel where we collapsed and rested long enough to be rejuvenated enough to enjoy a very nice Edinburgh Gin and tonic in the lounge of our hotel where we also had a light dinner. (After our huge High Tea lunch!)