Charleston, SC
Today I lept out of bed at 8:30, having slept for 10 and a half hours! I guess I needed it. Marsha had kindly inquired about the best walking tour guides from one of her friends on my behalf and I called one she recommended and was able to get the last spot on the 10:30 am tour this morning. So I had a quick start to the day as I still had to shower and find my way downtown for the first time. It only took me 15 minutes to get from here to the Visitors Centre parking lot and then another 20 minutes to walk down Meeting Street to meet up with the guide.
The guide was excellent. I thought he must have had some acting experience and from one of his anecdotes it turns out he did. If you’re ever in Charleston I’d highly recommend him. Charleston Footprints, Michael Trouche…tel. 843-478-4718. I wound up with my head feeling like it was going to explode with so much information, but he provided it in such an interesting way with humour and anecdotes.
It was a small group which was great so that we could all hear and ask questions easily. The tour was 2 hours, but I was surprised when it was over. He covered all sorts of topics: history; botany; architecture; and current trends. Walking without tripping on uneven surfaces or getting run over, listening, and taking pictures means I missed a lot of the factual information he provided unfortunately. I’ll try sharing some of the bits I do remember.
Charleston is on the coast about half way down South Carolina on an inlet of the Atlantic. Both guides I had today used the same local expression, “it’s where the Cooper and Ashley Rivers come together to form the Atlantic Ocean”. It was and is a busy port. Over 40% of the slaves from West Africa came to north America through Charleston and before the Civil War they exported rice around the world. Today, the Port is the second largest industry in Charleston behind tourism and it’s one of the busiest in the country.
Charleston was originally founded in 1670 as Charles Town on the other side of the river from where it now sits. Charles II granted the charter to the “Province of Carolina” to eight of his best buddies as the “Lords Proprietors”. Settlers came from England, Barbados and Bermuda and in1680 they moved to the current location because it was more defensible and had a better harbour. The settlers discovered that the slaves from West Africa knew how to grow rice and this area was conducive to it’s growth so it became a huge cash crop for them. (of course that crop died off with the freeing of the slaves because it no longer was profitable).
During the American Revolution the British were first repelled but eventually Charleston fell to the British. After the British left in 1782 the city’s name was officially changed to Charleston.
Of course, Charleston was the site of some key events during the Civil War. After Lincoln was elected, South Carolina was the first state to secede from the Union and the first battle of the Civil War was when shots were fired at Fort Sumter, on one of the barrier islands in the Charleston harbour. Much of the city was destroyed by the bombing and fires as a result of the war, and the economy was destroyed since it existed based on the use of slaves. It took a while for the economy to come back, but it did and today it’s booming. Building is evident all around the city, Volvo is putting a manufacturing plant in Mount Pleasant and the Tourism industry is strong.
The historic district is a large area and it’s one beautiful home after another (now ranging price from $1 – 20 million) connected by beautifully landscaped streets and alleyways. The unique “Single House” you can see in some of the pics is really prominent in the historic district. The houses were built in this style to try and capture as much of the breeze as possible for cooling in the hot summers. They were built only a single room wide on the street side and with the main entrance on the side opening into a hall, dividing the two rooms on the main floor. The door on the street told potential visitors whether the household was interested in guests. If it was open, they could feel free to knock on the main door on the side.
Charleston has earned the nickname “The Holy City” because of the tolerance of the city for all religions. In a relatively small city there are 137 churches, 2 mosques and 1 synagogue.
After my walking tour I was famished, having dashed off without breakfast, so lunch was next on my itinerary. I stumbled across a great restaurant on Queen just off Meeting Street, called Poogan’s Porch. There wasn’t room on the porch but they did have communal tables in the bar and I sat next to a couple that were visiting from the mountains in North Carolina. They were very gracious and we had a lovely conversation pretty much all through their lunch and mine. I had three small starters instead of a meal. I gave Fried Green Tomatoes another try as it’s one of the house specialties and they were awesome! They were served with peach or apricot preserve and the tanginess with the sweet was fabulous. Next was Mac and Cheese – some of the best I’ve had with lots of bacon flavour. Then I finished with a blue cheese wedge salad. All were excellent, as was the service.
I wandered in the afternoon, just soaking up the beautiful homes, and checking out the City Market. By the time I got back to my car at the visitor’s centre I was getting weary but not yet ready to give up exploring so I decided to take a bus tour from Charms of Charleston Tours. Tour guide Tiffany was great and it helped to hear about things from her perspective and to see a bit more of the city than I did on foot.
A full, and delightful day. Loving Charleston and still some things to see. Hoping the rain will hold off tomorrow but the forecast isn’t good. So we’ll see.