11,938 steps and 8.0 km in fact.

We headed for the downtown core of Cape Town on foot today. A 15 minute walk had us exploring along Long Street where there are so many lovely old buildings now housing everything from beer halls to craft stores. Many were build in the late 1800’s.

We stopped to browse through the Greenmarket Square and managed to stimulate the local economy a little. Then we headed over to the District Six Museum. District Six was the scene of the removal of over 60,000 inhabitants in the late 1960’s and early 1970’s under the apartheid regime and specifically under the Group Areas Act. The area was an active and lively community as early as in the late 1800s, full of indigenous peoples and immigrants of all sorts of descents; Malay, Blacks, Indians and Afrikaners. Their homes were flattened and they were relocated to a dreary area outside the city. Under the Group Areas Act, people were also moved out of rural areas. After the fall of apartheid in 1994 the government started to rebuild the area and Nelson Mandela oversaw the return of residents as early as 2003. Claimants are still working to get their property rights and housed re-built as well as restitution for lost quality of life, loss of education, etc.

Oh, and yes, Cape Town does have a Hop On, Hop Off Bus too.

Next it was a walk past the very impressive Cape Town City Hall built in 1905, where Nelson Mandela made his first speech as President from the balcony of this incredible building. The limestone for the building was imported from Bath, England.

Of course we couldn’t come to a capital city of a country and not see the legislative buildings! Being a Saturday it was unfortunately closed. South Africa is interesting in that it really has 3 capitals: Cape Town is the seat of Parliament, Pretoria is the administrative capital and seat of the President and Cabinet, and Bloemfontein is the judicial capital and seat of the Supreme Court. Below is a small section of the National Parliament Buildings but is not the main building as we seem to have missed that in our wandering.

We had gradually been making our way toward The Company Garden, in the centre of the city and adjacent to the Parliament buildings. The Garden originated in 1650 and is the oldest garden in the country. It was started as a garden for the founder and Dutch colonial administrator of Cape Town, Jan Van Riebeeck but is now a really lovely public garden which I bet is really busy at lunch time during the week. Today it was full of families and couples and groups of friends enjoying the warm winter day. You can see Table Mountain from the garden, as you can from almost everywhere in Cape Town. You see it sneaking through the branches of this picture of some pink blossoms on some trees in the garden. Nice to experience spring twice in one year.

We stopped for a quick salad at a lovely outdoor cafe in the Garden to the sounds of a few young people busking in park singing really pleasing traditional African songs.

After lunch we wandered through the park to find the statue of Cecil Rhodes, and past the Slave Bell. The history of Cecil Rhodes in Southern Africa is long and detailed and I’m not even going to start with it here. I’ve read lots of Wilbur Smith books and he figures prominently Smith’s historical fiction. The Cape Dutch design Slavery Bell was built in 1911/1912. Bells such as this one were used to call slaves to various tasks during their day, but this one was built after slavery was abolished.

Then it was back to our home away from home this week, the Cape Milner Hotel, where we discovered our chariot awaits! This will be our transport for the next 22 days as we depart tomorrow for Lampert’s Bay north along the coast of South Africa on our way to Namibia.

Today we spent the day in an around Cape Town once again. We started the day with a trip to Robben Island, then had a brief tour of the downtown core, a visit to the Castle of Good Hope, the South African Museum, a quick drive through the Malay Quarter, and then up to Table Mountain via the cableway. It was a very busy day.

The ferry ride to Robben Island, one of the most famous prisons in the world because of its most famous political prisoner, Nelson Mandela, took approximately 45 minutes. We were lucky to have a really nice day, sunny and 22 without even any chop on the water. Once on the island a young man, who could talk faster than almost anyone I’ve heard, was our guide for a bus tour around the island describing life for the political and other prisoners on the island. We saw the prison buildings, historic church, and current facilities for the staff working at Robben Island.

One of my take-aways was the number of lesser known, by me at least, activists, who were imprisoned there between 1962 and 1991, and their hardships. The political prisoners endured even more hardship than the criminal element. Torture and incredibly poor living conditions such as just thin mats on the cement floor for sleeping with only thin blankets against the cold winters, a bucket as a toilet, torture, small food rations, infrequent visits and letters from family were all endured. Below is a picture of cell number 4, Nelson Mandela’s cell.

The political prisoners were required to work in a limestone quarry through the cold and rain for long hours when even the criminal prisoners had much lighter duties such as house cleaning of the soldiers barracks etc.

Mandela’s story is well understood but there were so many more that in their own way promoted various civil rights causes. One in particular, was Robert Sobukwe who was a Secretary General of the ANC and then started the Pan Africanist Congress. He had led a nationwide protest against the requirement that black people carry a pass book (like a passport for use inside the country) at all times. He was thought to be such a threat that he was kept in solitary confinement in a separate building on Robben Island and not allowed to speak to anyone. A law named after him was even passed and enacted to keep him imprisoned.

After the tour of the island to see the prison buildings and those supporting the island’s current staff, we were met at the entrance to the administrative building by another special guide for the tour of the maximum security block where Mandela was held. Our guide was inprisoned on Robben Island for his role in the 1976 Soweto Uprising against Apartheid. He told us several stories about his experience such as sending notes back and forth from one prison block to the other using a tennis ball during their once a week chance for exercise, the misery of trying to keep warm at night sleeping on the cement floor, having to strip naked and run through the compound in mismatched shoes and nothing else. And, with passion, he told us how through all that, Mandela inspired he and others with his unbelievable capacity for forgiveness. Our guide was not without humour, insisting that we repeat Mandela’s assigned prisoner number (466/64) til it was sufficiently loud enough and telling us that they named the tennis court they could use monthly “Wimbledon”. It’s unfortunate that because of his strong accent and way of speaking that we missed much of what he was saying but no one doubted his passion, sincerity and the scars that have been left by his incarceration and that of what became his friends among his fellow activists.

We shook hands good-bye with him at the gate of the prison. He made quite the impression.

The return trip was really pleasant and passed quickly. We stopped for lunch with a woman who joined us on our day of touring. Turns out she is was a 10 year Labour Member of Parliament for the State of Queensland. As you can imagine we had some interesting discussions over lunch.

In the afternoon we had a brief tour of the downtown core and our guide explained the canal system of water flowing from Table Mountain to the ocean through the centre of town. The canals are now underground, and given the severe water shortage he though maybe tapping in to this fresh water source might be a missed opportunity. We headed to the Castle of Good Hope, which is an active military base. We would have called it a fort and it performed the same function as our early forts did in the early years of the settlement in Cape Town by the Dutch and then the British. It had the impressive big canons, munitions buildings, and even had a torture chamber! The former Governors home was filled with period furniture and we toured through it, and an art exhibit being held in the castle.

Next it was on to the South African Museum where petroglyphs from thousands of years ago were impressively displayed. We really only had about 10 minutes there because we had to get up to Table Mountain before it closed for the evening. Enroute to the mountain we (and by we I mean Nanci) asked the guide to drive us through the brightly painted houses of the Malay Quarter. We were there as the call to prayer was being broadcast and Nanci and I were transported to Turkey.

For us, just like 25 million people before, Table Mountain was a quick trip up (after some scrambling to buy tickets in the queue outside on my iPhone – long story) to the top, at 3,500 feet. The cableway just reopened after annual maintenance and we were glad of their diligence to maintenance given it’s been operating since 1929. Somehow I don’t think the rotating cable car’s engineering was done in 1929. Each car holds 80 people and only takes 4 minutes to get to the top. The floor of the car rotates 360 degrees during the ride up to allow visitors an ever changing and amazing view

We wandered or rather raced around at the top, taking pictures as best we could while our guide stood in line for us so that we didn’t have to wait to get down as the cableway was closing. It was a quick trip up and back, but so glad we had the opportunity to do it. Many of the tourists we’ve talked to this week were not so lucky and their plans were cancelled by bad weather. The cableway is shut down in any significant wind and as you already know, wind is very common here.

After freshening up we headed out to a restaurant a few blocks away, Rick’s Cafe Americain, that was recommended by our hotel front desk. It was a fantastic recommendation. Seemed to be a locals hangout as we’re located in a residential area on the way to Table Mountain. The food was excellent, and the place was full of energy.

Tomorrow will be our last day in Cape Town. We join up with our Tour Group tomorrow evening and then we’re off on our adventure the next morning. So you may not hear from me for a few days. Can’t wait!

When you tell people you’re going to Cape Town, almost anyone who has been there says, “Be sure to go see the penguins”. Today was the day! But I digress.

Today, with a smart, knowledgable and lovely young man named Xavier as our tour guide and driver we circumnavigated the Cape Peninsula. After a brief stop to pick up two other guests from India we were on our way from Cape Town to the tip of the peninsula at Cape Point.

We headed first down the west side of the cape driving through several of the most affluent neighbourhoods of Cape Town. Condos and homes were built up and down the cliffs from the main road overlooking the Atlantic. Bantry Bay was the first community we passed through and it’s one of the most desirable because it is protected from the winds by Lions Head mountain. Xavier told us that the wind is called the Cape doctor because it takes away all the pollution from the city and blows it out to sea.

Next up was Clifton which is the top ranked affluent neighbourhood, with five beautiful beaches. Along this stretch of affluent communities there was recently a Justin Bieber sighting when he was seen dining here during his tour to Cape Town. Unfortunately, I suppose because of his recent visit to the area, quite often when we tell people we’re from Canada Justin Bieber is referenced. Sigh. Could think of other worse things I suppose.

This coastal drive is on the back side of Table Mountain and perched atop the mountain from this angle and circling Camps Bay are the Twelve Apostles. We had a quick stop at Maidens Cove for picture taking and then we stopped high on a hill to take pictures of an amazing beach, really wide, long (12 km) and beautiful white sand. There were a couple of horseback riders on the beach and they were just tiny specks, lost in the expanse of the beach from our perspective. What a great place to ride. One thing I hadn’t expected expected from Cape Town was the plethora of beautiful beaches in the area. The Atlantic is rough and cold so activity even in the summer is mostly sunbathing, one clothing optional.

With fabulous views with every turn, we were soon on to Houts Bay (Hout is the Afrikaans word for wood and since the early settlers used wood from this area to build homes, that name was given to this large protected bay). There is a port and yet another lovely beach and then we were on to Chapman Peak Drive, a toll road now to pay for major reconstruction after a rock fall 10 or so years ago took out part of the road. Even now buses are only allowed to travel south on the highway because the lane going north is too narrow.

Along the way we talked to our guide about how daily life is in Cape Town and more generally South Africa. It was interesting to hear his perspective.

As we neared the southern most tip of the Cape we stopped to see an Ostrich farm and I learned a lot about them! The hens lay an egg a day until they have a full nest to sit on and of course they sneak the eggs out from under them to encourage continued laying. The gift stores are full of ostrich eggs, painted and etched and adorned for sale. They are huge – 6 inches high and weigh about 3 pounds (20 times the weight of a chicken’s egg). Imagine the omelet! When the females, which have grey feathers vs the males black and white, are in breeding season their necks turn pink. Pretty darn obvious! They mate for life, just like Canada Geese I pointed out to Xavier. Not sure he knew what a Canada Goose was.

We arrived at the entrance to Table Mountain National Park, which Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope are part of, and stopped in line at the gates to pay the entry fee. We waited just a few minutes and Xavier said in the summer, high season the wait is over an hour some times. We were actually reminded several times today that travelling off season to this area has many advantages especially when we had such fabulous weather as we did today. All venues had lots of visitors but they weren’t crazy busy. At the Cape we were able to drive up to the parking lot where as in the summer, the vans have to park and visitors have to go to the entry point by shuttle bus.

There are two points at the south end of the Cape, Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. We headed to Cape of Good Hope first. A common misconception is that the Cape of Good Hope is the southern most point of the continent of Africa, but in fact it is the most south western most point. Cape Agulhas, which is 250 km to the south east, is actually the southern most point and is where the Atlantic and India oceans meet. We won’t unfortunately be able to get there this trip.

After the compulsory Kodak moment (queuing involved), we headed over to Cape Point where the light house is located. We walked the 15 or so minutes up to the top of the Cape and to the lighthouse there. What a spectacular view. After a quick lunch, almost stolen by the aggressive birds lying in wait for unsuspecting tourists, we turned north to return to Cape Town on the coastal road on the east side of the Cape. We did not, however, see any evidence of the Baboons that the frequent signs warn tourists to be on the look out for and protect their food from.

It was here, near Simon’s Town, that we got to fulfill our goal of seeing the African Penguins along Boulder Beach. I know I’m not alone in thinking Africa was a strange place to find penguins. One thinks of the Emperor Penguins and all the ice and snow in which they live. But there on the beach and surrounding sand dunes was one of the 52 colonies of African Penguins. They’re so cute and we spent 30 minutes or so watching their hilarious movements. There are only 3 colonies on the mainland with the majority of them on islands off the coast. I could write about penguins but it’s late and really, do you care, other than they’re cute.

Simon’s Town is a really nice looking community of expensive homes, and great looking shops and restaurants. But in short order were were off on the coastal road heading back to Cape Town. We didn’t make any more stops but we did get to enjoy the fabulous views and cute villages, such as Fish Hoek, along the way.

We had Xavier drop us off at the Waterfront so we could enjoy another of the great restaurants for dinner there. Then it was back in a cab for our hotel where we hope to have an early night because we’ve got more fun and adventure planned starting early tomorrow. More then………

Today I turned 62. That’s like the new 42, right? Doesn’t matter, age is a state of mind or just a number. I still feel like I’m 25 but with a whole lot of experience.

And today, I spent the day in the area in and around Stellenbosch, South Africa, touring wineries and enjoying lunch and the company of new friends and old, er I mean longer term.

Just before 9:00 am Marius from Camino Tours picked us up at our hotel and we headed north-east around Table Mountain and over to the town of Stellenbosch to gather up another couple of guests that would be joining us on our winery tour today. Actually, they refer to them as farms rather than vineyards or wineries here. The other guests turned out to be a young couple from Ireland who were fitting a dream trip to Africa in before moving and starting new jobs in Tipperary. They were excellent touring companions.

The town of Stellenbosch, founded in 1679, is the second oldest European settlement in South Africa (next to Cape Town), and is home to Stellenbosch University and to a fantastic grape growing region. It’s about 50 km from Cape Town at the base of Stellenbosch Mountain. The soils of Stellenbosch, well-drained and hilly and the Mediterranean climate, are great for grape growing as the hundreds of vineyards in the region have discovered. Summers (Feb/Mar) are dry and warm to hot and winters are cool, rainy and sometimes windy, as we discovered since we’ve been here.

As an aside, the Cape region has been suffering this winter from a lack of rain and the reservoirs are only at 17% capacity. Water is on strict rationing and people are asked to use a maximum of 85 litres per person per day, which requires some serious conservation efforts such as reusing bath water for flushing toilets, etc. As visitors we’re exempt from this quota, but we’re doing our bit by having short showers, etc.

Marius took us to our first stop just outside Stellenbosch to a winery called, Overgaauw Wine Estate, which is a fourth-generation (more than a century old) family-run winery. The property was rich with history and character, with building built in the typical Dutch Cape Design. Our host was a delightful woman, who, with her brother, is now running the business after taking over much of the responsibility from their father. She had an obvious knowledge of, and love for the industry and her family’s contribution to the art of wine making.

This winery has a reputation for many firsts, including new vintages such as the first South African estate to bottle a 100% Merlot, and was among the first Chardonnay producers. We tried 6 wines here, including a fortified wine that I absolutely loved. Now, at this point I should probably admit to not really being very much of a wine drinker. Probably a wine tasting tour is a bit wasted on me. But I did my bit and tried everything that was presented to me. The fact that a fortified wine was one of the highlights of the day is remarkable.

Our next stop, Jordan Wine Estate, was just down the road and was about 180 degrees different than the first. It was a much more commercial enterprise with a new shiny show room, slick merchandizing and marketing and multiple staff performing the tastings.

The estate has been producing grapes for 300 years but was most recently handed over to the second generation Jordans in 1993 when they bought it after having been bought by their parents in 1982. I loved the Chenin Blanc from there, and the property was absolutely gorgeous with views of the surrounding hills and vales. The charm and character of the previous host and family run operation just wasn’t there.

Some of you will recognize the name of the next winery that we went to. Ernie Els is best known as a golfer on the PGA Tour and he’s won an amazing number of tournaments. He is from the Johannesburg area of South Africa, but his wife is from Stellenbosch and she obviously has a huge influence. South east of Stellenbosch, up on a hill is a beautiful property, the home of Ernie Els Wines.

It’s the only winery we visited that had a trophy room or a chipping mat and landing green as highlights. The property is manicured and the buildings impressive, as are the trophy’s and pictures from Ernie’s golf career. The sun came out for a little while for us while we were there, but we didn’t have a chance to take a swing of a golf club. We did however, manage to taste another 3 wines or 4 wines. As you will know, there are spittoons provided so that you don’t actually have to drink all the wines you are tasting and when I attended an LCBO (the Ontario government liquor monopoly for those of you outside Ontario) tasting they encourage the use of the spittoon and responsible drinking. But hey, it’s my birthday and I’m being driven so yes I probably drank more wine today than in the previous whole year. I didn’t dance on any tables so I think I managed to handle it OK.

We got to our lunch destination, thankfully, just in time before the kitchen closed down. Lunch was beautiful. I had springbok. Sorry to all you vegetarians, vegans and pescatarians, but it really had to be tried. It was a very flavourful main dish and with so much meat provided I wasn’t able to get through it all (and eat dessert, I mean). Dessert was a chocolate ganache with cappuccino ice cream served with a chocolate wafer. You’ll see a picture of it, where I tried to hide the fact I’d already eaten half. Did I succeed?

After a leisurely lunch spent in the company of our new Irish friends, Marius was back to collect us to show us our final estate for the day, Annandale. I’m not really sure what to say about it, other than it had history, charm, roosters and hens, two massive dogs, a quirky host and red wines. To be honest by this point, and after a heavy lunch, I was ready for a nap, not more red wine. But again, I did my bit and had a few sips of each, and then I disappeared to catch up with the roosters.

We parted company with our Irish friends but not before meeting up with the owner of Camino Tours, Antoinette who presented me with a bottle of their wine as a birthday treat. I would highly recommend Camino for anyone wanting to do a wine tour in the Stellenbosch area for their professionalism and warm attention. Marius was an excellent guide with a laugh or a joke never far away.

All in all a great day. A birthday to be remembered for sure.

Both Nanci and I had a great sleep last night and even felt human when we got up this morning. We did, however, get a slow start because it was cool, rainy and overcast and so we weren't motivated. After a nice breakfast at the Cape Milner Hotel, our comfortable home away from home this week, we decided to head for the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront where we knew we could at least see some shops in the shopping mall. It's a relatively new development along the busy Cape Town harbour. Old marine buildings and some new builds have been turned into an eating and shopping Mecca. There are over 450 shops and services with building still continuing. Much to our delight, the day took a decided turn for the better and the sun came out, and there were mostly big white fluffy clouds milling about. We were even lucky enough that the "Table Cloth" of clouds that normally surrounds Table Mountain lifted so we were able to see the whole mountain.

We wandered around the wharf area, stopping to listen to music, and doing a little shopping. I might have bought myself a ring with elephants engraved on it for myself for my birthday.

This bright clock tower was built in 1882 and it overlooks a swing pedestrian bridge that had to open while we were watching for a catamaran to enter the Albert Basin and then under another lift bridge and into the marina.

This statue is an ice cream cone upside down on a wedge of blue cheese! Nanci's kind of art.

We stopped for a bit of lunch and even tried and really enjoyed a local favourite that son-in-law Phil recommended, Savanna, a cider that is really tasty, without being too sweet. I expect there will be a few of these consumed over the course of the next 34 days.

After lunch we headed over to the Cape Wheel while the weather was good and the crowds were thin. It took us up 40 metres and was a great way to see around the whole area, with the beautiful back drop of Table Mountain on one side and the Atlantic on the other, with lots of interesting things to see in between. Part of the proceeds from the wheel go the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation, South Africa. The funds are use to support projects for youth, particularly those involving sport for those who could not otherwise afford to participate.

Next was a stop at Nobel Square where bronze statues stand of 4 Nobel laureates from South Africa; Nelson Mandela (1993), Archbishop Desmond Tutu (1984), former ANC President Albert Luthuli (1961), and FW de Klerk (1993).

Surprisingly enough we got hungry once again, and Nanci had picked up information on a South African cuisine restaurant at the Wharf area. We figure, when in Rome……. It was an excellent choice. We started out on the patio looking out over the luxury and working boats in the marina with Table Mountain and the Cape Wheel, now lighted, as a backdrop. But after it started to spit rain a little, we got moved closer to the building out of the rain. For an appie, we went wild and tried Ostrich Carpaccio. It was served sliced very thin and was a little like chicken. Just kidding, didn't taste like chicken at all. I had the fresh line fish of the day, whose name escapes me as it's something completely alien to me. It was described as being similar to Mahi and it was lovely. Nanci managed to save room to have her first ice cream of the trip for dessert. I expect there will be more of that to come.

j

We're now tucked back in to our hotel and looking forward to tomorrow as our adventures continue.

So the downside of travelling to the other side of the world is travelling to the other side of the world.  The actual travelling part I mean. 

We’ve completed the easy first leg of our 24 hour journey having arrived at our boarding gate at Montreal airport. 
We’re travelling KLM and they have a bus service from Ottawa that picks up at the train station to transport us to Montreal. I know, all very counterintuitive. 

So far our trip has been uneventful and travel is always best when you can say that. 

Next stop Amsterdam, for a quick connection through to Cape Town. 

See you on the other side. 

My travel buddy Nanci and I booked our trip to Africa months ago and it seemed the departure date would never arrive. I have been to Mexico and had a few domestic trips in the meantime, but for this year at least, Africa is the one I've really been anticipating. Funny that now that it's only a week away the time is flying by.

This will be my first trip to the continent of Africa and preparing and packing for it has been a bit of a conundrum. When contemplating Africa, one usually only thinks hot and arid. But after spending the winter in the various deserts of the southern States during the winter of 2015/2016 I knew that nights might be cool in the deserts of Africa. Checking the average highs, lows and precipitation for the places we'll be travelling indicated that was the case. What I hadn't anticipated is that for our starting point of Cape Town, which is now experiencing winter, the weather will be less than ideal. So seems that we have to pack for a variety of scenarios, and given our luggage weight is limited, it will indeed be challenging.

I haven't had to pick up much in preparation for this trip but I did break down and buy a stupid-looking, but hopefully useful hat. I hate hats. The only ones I've worn before were a ball cap (and only when absolutely necessary) and a motorcycle helmet.

Aside from picking up a few wardrobe items, there are always things to do to prepare for a trip. I visited the travel clinic to make sure my vaccinations were up to date and to see about special medication for this part of the world. Part way through our trip we will be entering an area where more-than-just-pesky malaria mosquitos may be a problem, so we have our medication for that, and a just-in-case antibiotic for stomach problems. And there are the normal things like making sure all the bills are paid or prepaid, hair is cut, mail is looked after, and of course, my toe nails need to be spiffied up with an appropriate colour. Because you just know they're going to show up in a picture or two along the way.

Going over the bridge back to the mainland from St Joe this morning was a little melancholy, but that was offset by the excitement of heading for somewhere new to lay my head tonight.

After the compulsory stop at Timmy’s in Blind River (a new improved Timmy’s since my last visit there) I retraced my steps east on Highway 17 almost to Sudbury. I turned south on highway 69 toward my eventual destination of Toronto. But just 35 or so kilometers south of the turnoff I turned east onto Highway 637 bound for Killarney. I had heard great things about this place and was looking forward to an exploratory overnight diversion.

I was surprised a little by Killarney. It was more bustling than I thought it would be. It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon in the middle of summer though so really, what was I thinking?

I drove down the main drag and could tell from the line up that the most popular stop in town was the Fish and Chips window at Herbert Fishery. (The picture was taken at 8 am the next morning, so no line). There were lots and lots of families enjoying the lovely weather and the amazing scenery. Killarney is situated on Killarney Narrows between a mainland peninsula and George Island. The narrows is really narrow! So it’s a logical and very effective moorage for the boats sailing, paddling and motoring through the North Channel of Lake Huron. I over heard people who were off a tour boat whose next stop was Little Current, on Manitoulin Island. How lucky they were for this fabulous day. I don’t imagine, as pretty as it is, that it would be quite to gorgeous on a rainy, cold, windy day, not to mention a winter one!

I headed to the Killarney Mountain Lodge at the west end of the narrows where I would be staying tonight. My room wouldn’t be ready for some time, so I grabbed a table on the patio and enjoyed a Caesar salad with smoked trout. It was really lovely.

Then instead of just wandering through town or enjoying the pool and other hotel facilities, and despite the fact that it was 28 or so degrees, I decided to take the opportunity to hike out to the lighthouse on a trail I’d read about. I was not as prepared as I should have been and despite the clouds of mosquitos, mud, slippery rocks because of my muddy shoes and the sun/heat, it was an awesome hike. Finding the trailhead was a little iffy because of the construction of a new conference centre on the property, almost exactly where the trailhead started. But with the help of one of the staff members I found it. Aside from the start, the trail was really well marked, with fluorescent paint spots and ties on trees, with older yellow arrows on the rocks, and with the most artistic markings painted in red (for the direction of the lighthouse) and white (for the direction home). Between all of the indications I managed to find my way to the lighthouse and more importantly, home.

The trail started out in the forest and fortunately the shade, but the mosquitos were a little ferocious. Eventually the path started up hill and there was some scrambling on the rocks and boulders to a perch high on a hill where you could look over the forest, into the narrows and out to the lake and see there in the distance, the lighthouse. I eventually figured out that the drumming I was hearing was not local indigenous peoples but my heart pounding hard with the exertion. I actually had a moment of considering taking a picture and heading back, with only half the hike done, but I decided to persevere and make it the rest of the way.

The reward was a great view of the lighthouse and a well deserved rest nestled in the smooth rocks of the shoreline. (Also dessert at dinner tonight!). As always the return trip didn’t seem as long. Why is that? And I was back, with lessons learned as usual. Don’t forget the bug spray, sunscreen, water and maybe go early or later, and not in the heat of the day. Sigh. I’m 62. When do you suppose I’ll learn these life lessons.

I was finally able to check in and made my way to my cute little bungalow. It’s just a bedroom and bath, but boy did the bed look comfortable! I looked in the mirror and wondered why on earth the front desk actually gave me a key. I had a streak of mud down my cheek, my hair was practically standing on end from the breeze and my face was a fluorescent pink. Wild man of Borneo comes to mind. Not sure where that expression even comes from.

After a shower and bit of a rest, I headed to the dining room for dinner. I had heard how great the food was, and that boats come up to Killarney just to eat at the Lodge. And they weren’t exaggerating. I had an all fish protein day. I started with smoked trout salad which was just a small portion of fish and lettuce in a nice dressing. Then I had a Canadian Two Fish dinner. Pickerel and Whitefish pan fried, with a sweet potato and wild rice mash, and a kale salad. My reward for the hike was a lemon pound cake with lemon curd and blueberry compote on the side. Yum.

A walk along the narrows was my last treat of the day and now I’m going to really enjoy my luxurious bed in the complete quiet and darkness of the Canadian wilderness.

In 2000, Dave and I bought a treed lot with 100 foot frontage on the North Channel of Lake Heron. It was on Canoe Point Road on St. Joseph Island, near the tiny community of Hilton Beach, Ontario. How did we come to be there? you ask. Dave had spent summers in the area because his maternal grandparents had a home on Kensington Point Road on the mainland, just across a narrow straight from the island. After decades of having not been back, Dave visited the area in the fall of 1999 while at a sales meeting nearby and his interest in the area was rekindled. We all visited again in the summer of 2000 and I fell in love with the area as well. Over the winter of 2000/2001, a summer home was built according to our specifications and in March of 2001 we (and by we, I mean Dave) spent spring break putting together something like 42 boxes of IKEA furniture. We spent summers at 2732 Canoe Point Road until our separation in fall of 2007. While that's a relatively short time in the overall scheme of my life, those summers have had a lasting impression.

St Joseph Island is the most westerly of a chain of islands that runs west from Manitoulin Island. The channel on the west side of the island, is part of the Great Lakes shipping channel and the shore across the channel is the U.S.A. These islands are actually a continuation of the Niagara Escarpment and a ferry even joins Manitoulin Island with the Bruce Peninsula, also part of the escarpment. You may recall I was in Tobermory at the tip of the Bruce Peninsula as part of my tour of Ontario last summer.

The island has an interesting history, having been on the main route of the early fur trade, and being in a strategic location during the War of 1812. Fort St Joseph was the most westerly British fort in 1812, and it's here that the British staged their troops for their attack on American Fort Mackinaw, the first victory in the War of 1812. The fort was burned to the ground and not rebuilt but Parks Canada has an interesting presentation centre, some of the foundations remain and there are still archeological digs of the site when funds allow.

The summer people almost double the population on St Joe and they come from an amazing variety of places. A lot of people from Sault Ste Marie have their places here, but people come from as far as Vancouver (us!), Ottawa, Ohio, Texas, Illinois Georgia, Windsor, and Michigan. There is a significant American population among the summer people who have been coming to their summer homes, mostly on the small islands dotting the North Channel and St Joe for generations. The sailing is magnificent, with all sorts of interesting exploring, and races are regularly organized.

St Joe is covered in maple trees and some of the earliest homesteaders were the Norwegian Gilbertson family. Bernt Gilberston established a maple syrup business on St Joe before becoming a Progressive Conservative Member of the Provincial Parliament (MPP) for the area. Gilbertson Maple Syrup Products is still in business and is the largest producer of Maple Syrup in Ontario. In the fall the island is a riot of colour as the maple trees turn to shades of rust, orange and red.

The island and area is rich with artists and one of the Island's best known characters is Doug Hook, a watercolour artist who often paints island scenes. I love his work, and we often attended his annual art show in Richards Landing. We bought a print of one of his paintings of a lighthouse near our cottage, so we had something in common with His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, since he also owns one of Doug's paintings! Although I guess his is an original.

A unique thing found on the island is "puddingstone". This area is the only location this jasper conglomerate is found. It gets it name because it looks somewhat like pudding with raisins and plums in it because of the colours of the inclusions.

While we had the cottage, I drove out from Vancouver in May each year, with the SUV full of "stuff" we'd accumulated over the year for the summer place, and I stayed until Labour Day when I made the reverse trip with a now empty SUV except for the litres of maple syrup produced on the island. I usually made the trip in 3 and a half days, although now I don't think I'd be able to manage that. Dave and Gill would fly out once school was out, and Dave would travel back and forth as business required. I worked on business and politics (mostly) from there, often taking conference calls while sitting on the deck watching the boats on the lake.

Those summers were some of my happiest. Something about driving over the Bernt Gilberston Bridge on to the island that allowed stress to miraculously disappear. Things don't change much on "St Joe" from year to year and maybe that's part of it's charm. The businesses stay pretty much the same, and many of the annual events and activities have been happening for decades. The people, both locals and "summer people", are just lovely.

This summer I wanted to visit with my friend Marilyn (who you would have met twice already if you read my blog on my North America No Fixed Address Tour), and so I decided to come to the island timed to coincide with the Richards Landing Community Night, which is where I first met Marilyn several years ago. The drive from Deep River yesterday, where I stopped over night, was fabulous. The weather was absolutely ideal to enjoy the amazing scenery and last evening's community night.

There are two community nights held every summer on the Island, one in Richards Landing and one in Hilton Beach. They are only a few kilometers apart but two distinct and some might say, competitive communities. We usually also took in Community Nights or Canada Day activities in a couple of the surrounding communities of Desbarats (pronounced Debra), Bruce Mines and Thessalon. Community night traditions include a parade, with first responder vehicles, vintage cars, kids on decorated bikes and those dressed in costumes, floats from some of the island's businesses and groups and always leading it off, the Sault Ste Marie Pipe Band. There is even a train ride for the kids. There are food booths, run by the various service and interest groups to raise funds for their activities. There is always a quilt raffle. I never win. There are games of chance and of skill, along with a dunk tank. All evening, for the cost of a single ticket or an arm full, there are chances to win huge stuffed animals. I never win that either.

But I think most of all, community night is about islanders and those from around these parts getting together to chat with their neighbours. I saw some people that I've become friends with over the years (including Elizabeth and Andy who live in Ottawa as well) and that was happening all over the grounds. The weather was a prime topic of discussion since farming is one of the mainstays of the local economy. The farmers couldn't get on the fields to get the hay crop cut when it was at its prime and while they're able to get into some fields now, the crop is of far lesser quality.

Oh wait, I forgot to mention PIE. One of the hottest food booths is always the pie booth and once again last night they were sold out before the evening was over. I hardly ever eat pie, but those pies made by the folks on St Joe are to die for. I always go for the wild blueberry ones and last night was no exception and I wasn't disappointed. Marilyn had rhubarb which looked amazing as well.

I had forgotten how quiet it is here on St Joe until I got into bed last night and with the windows open to take advantage of the cool breeze, I heard nothing, absolutely nothing. Quite amazing. This morning was bright and sunny and cool. Just the way I like it. Marilyn picked me up and we were off to get some breakfast and go exploring. Another day in paradise.

Before hitting one of my favourite restaurants, Bobbers, right on Highway 17 in Bruce Mines for breakfast we stopped at the Farmers Market in Desbarats. There is now a purpose built roof under which vendors from the local community were selling everything from locally made soap to hand made items knit from alpaca wool (the animals are bred locally) to the usual and great looking produce. Things were bustling! Then it was over to Bruce Station a small community just minutes away for a live auction. It's been a while since I've been to one and you could see how easily you could get caught up in the excitement. People really were getting extraordinary deals on all sorts of house wares. Then it was back to the island and a tour of the gift shops in Richards Landing, a drive by Sailers Encampment to see how high the water is there, and we lucked in to seeing a freighter going through the channel on it's way to the Sault. We ended up at Hilton Beach where we strolled along the marina, listening to the soft tinkling of the stays on the sail boats and enjoying the warm sun. We stopped to visit with a friend of Marilyn's on his boat to wish him a happy 93rd birthday. He had just come back in from a sail with his family.

We had dinner on an outdoor patio overlooking the marina and then headed back to Richards Landing where Marilyn and I sat quite happily and watched the boats come and go from that harbour. Some were coming in to gas up, others tied up while their passengers headed up the main street to the ice cream shop. We sat for at least an hour, just soaking in the warm evening and the fabulous views. What an incredible day. So much fun and so relaxing. Now I remember why I love this island so much. I'm totally at peace here.

A huge thanks to my friend Marilyn for such a lovely day spent in easy companionship and for letting me sit back and be the passenger.

 

 

Sunday night I was too tired to finish up my blog so I left if for today so it would be somewhere near coherent.

Sunday morning dawned cool but beautiful and it warmed up in no time.  We were so fortunate to have such grand weather for our adventure to Quebec City.

We were up and out by 7:30 a.m., but it’s guaranteed that the crews of the 40 Tall Ships were up well before that. After four days in the port of Quebec City welcoming thousands aboard their ships, the flotilla got ready to sail down the mighty St. Lawrence for Cornerbrook, NL, and then on to Halifax, NS and Saint John, NB. Most of the ships had already pushed away from the docks and headed upriver under power by the time we got down to the boardwalk just in time to see the last of the largest ships heading up river. We joined the other spectators anticipating their arrival at a spot along the boardwalk railing at the base of the Chateau Frontenac.   Upriver and out of sight, the ships came about and set and hoisted their sails despite the only 5 mph winds.  We spent the next hour clinging to the railing and hoisting ourselves up onto the angled top of the wall.

Leading the flotilla was a Canadian Navy Ship, followed by the fire boat with its amazing water pumping capacity. The majestic beauty of the ships sailing by was a sight to behold. There were “ohs” and “aws” from the assembled masses as each new ship came into view.  The best response from the crowd was reserved for the one below that included music loud enough to hear high up on the famous Quebec City bluff that Wolfe’s troops had scaled 258 years before in their attack on Montcalm.  As you can see, many of the crew were aloft standing on sail yards, ready to set the square sails.  I wonder how they decide who has to go all the way to the top one.  Or maybe it’s a privilege.

We watched for over an hour as single, double, triple and even 4 masted ships passed us. It’s one thing to see them tied up in harbour, and even to tour onboard as we did for 6-8 of them. It’s something else to see them under sail and in flotilla. I forgot at times to take pictures, enraptured by the sight of it all. You can see how huge these ships are in relation to the sailboats and yachts following along.  At one point a freight ship came steaming around the corner, irritatingly getting in the view.

As you can see from the puffs of smoke in some of the pictures below, some of the war ships were also demonstrating their arsenal.  In this case, thankfully, it was a salut to the host city and the adoring crowds.

Sad that it was over, we headed back to our lovely B&B, Hotel Chateau de Pierre, for another fabulous breakfast.  We checked out and hit the road back to Ottawa.  However, today instead of taking Highway 20/30/417 we stayed on the north side of the St Lawrence and followed the river for much of the way on Highway 138.  We were not alone.  The road was quite busy with lots of motorcyclists enjoying the great weather and there were several fresh fruit and veggie stands as well as many yard sales along the way. We traversed through many small, picturesque towns, most with an amazing church. We just had to stop at one in particular because it was absolutely huge especially in the context of the small town of Sainte-Anne de La Pérade, in which is was located. The church was bustling with activity getting prepared for a reenactment of the visit to the church of Charles de Gaulle. Who knew.

With just a quick stop at one of the ubiquitous Casse-Croutes for a great grilled hotdog, we arrived home just as it was starting to get dark, tired but so happy with another successful adventure.

Next up, northern Ontario, and the Big Smoke!

Here’s one more picture for the road…………taken into the rising morning sun.