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Our day in laid back Essaouira

Friday, September 14

A full day to just chill in Essaouira is a great way to end this wonderful adventure in Morocco. We met at 10 in the morning for Abdul to introduce us to the folks at a silversmith shop that is guaranteed by government license to be sure the products are all real silver. There are many people selling silver in the medinas, but who knows what is real and what not.

We watched some students of silversmithing working in a demonstration room. The apprentice for 2 years before getting their certificate as as silversmith. The work seemed awfully hard on their eyes, as they were doing little pieces of filigree and other work that demanded them to focus at quite close range. The patience required is mind-boggling. The fellow at the shop also showed us how they test to make sure the silver is real silver. They scratch the silver on a flat, smooth piece of lava rock where it leaves a bit of a mark. He did it with several items which they believed to be silver (including Abdul’s wedding ring!) and then they put a drop of Nitrous Acid on the scratches. If it turns blue it is real silver and if it stays clear it is not. Handy to know I suppose, but unlikely to carry nitrous and along on shopping trips. Abdul left us to our shopping and we had as much time as needed to shop instead of the short time periods we have had in other places. I only bought a few small pieces (Hand of Fatima earrings and the Berber symbol for freedom in a pendant and earrings) as I’m trying hard not to accumulate things.

We then headed to the port where the fish boats were already coming back in with their catch. To get there we had to pass through the 18th century ramparts that have been featured in some of the final Games of Thrones shows. The dock was bustling with fishers, fish mongers, customers and tourists, was full of colour (primarily the blue fishing boats now tied up in port) and you can imagine the smells I’m sure. If you had the desire, you could stop in at a selection of little booths where you could choose your fish and have it barbecued on the spot and served to you at tables and chairs right on the dock. Check out the picture where the seagull photobombed my pic of the rampart!

I’m not a big fan of fish so we moved on for a walk along the promenade on the beach where we were offered chairs to rent every 50 feet or so.

We did a little shopping, and got some lunch. There are a plethora of shops to check out in the various alleyways of the medina and because of it’s compact size it was manageable. We managed to find our way to another section of the ramparts which had a great view of the Atlantic. If I had unlimited room in my luggage I would have bought an oil painting I saw along one of the alleyways of the medina near the ramparts. Probably just as well my space is limited.

Nanci went for a traditional hamman and massage but I opted to wander a part of the market where we hadn’t yet been, the area where the locals shop. There were carts and shops for everything you could possibly imagine: fruit and veggies; tajines and other kitchen equipment; fish; spices,traditional clothes, balloons, etc. A nap seemed to be a good idea and then it was time to head out for dinner with the group.

Abdul took us to a great seafood place with a view of the ocean and the sunset and live music. It was a lovely evening-the food was great, the music mellow and interesting and everyone was in a collegial mood because we know our adventure together was coming to an end. I had pasta – the food has been great, but have to admit to getting a little tired of Moroccan food. Our stroll back to the hotel through the now quieter streets of the medina was the perfect end to our day in the lovely village of Essaouira where history, and tradition mingle with modern funseeking.

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