A visit to the Ontario wilderness in style

Going over the bridge back to the mainland from St Joe this morning was a little melancholy, but that was offset by the excitement of heading for somewhere new to lay my head tonight.

After the compulsory stop at Timmy’s in Blind River (a new improved Timmy’s since my last visit there) I retraced my steps east on Highway 17 almost to Sudbury. I turned south on highway 69 toward my eventual destination of Toronto. But just 35 or so kilometers south of the turnoff I turned east onto Highway 637 bound for Killarney. I had heard great things about this place and was looking forward to an exploratory overnight diversion.

I was surprised a little by Killarney. It was more bustling than I thought it would be. It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon in the middle of summer though so really, what was I thinking?

I drove down the main drag and could tell from the line up that the most popular stop in town was the Fish and Chips window at Herbert Fishery. (The picture was taken at 8 am the next morning, so no line). There were lots and lots of families enjoying the lovely weather and the amazing scenery. Killarney is situated on Killarney Narrows between a mainland peninsula and George Island. The narrows is really narrow! So it’s a logical and very effective moorage for the boats sailing, paddling and motoring through the North Channel of Lake Huron. I over heard people who were off a tour boat whose next stop was Little Current, on Manitoulin Island. How lucky they were for this fabulous day. I don’t imagine, as pretty as it is, that it would be quite to gorgeous on a rainy, cold, windy day, not to mention a winter one!

I headed to the Killarney Mountain Lodge at the west end of the narrows where I would be staying tonight. My room wouldn’t be ready for some time, so I grabbed a table on the patio and enjoyed a Caesar salad with smoked trout. It was really lovely.

Then instead of just wandering through town or enjoying the pool and other hotel facilities, and despite the fact that it was 28 or so degrees, I decided to take the opportunity to hike out to the lighthouse on a trail I’d read about. I was not as prepared as I should have been and despite the clouds of mosquitos, mud, slippery rocks because of my muddy shoes and the sun/heat, it was an awesome hike. Finding the trailhead was a little iffy because of the construction of a new conference centre on the property, almost exactly where the trailhead started. But with the help of one of the staff members I found it. Aside from the start, the trail was really well marked, with fluorescent paint spots and ties on trees, with older yellow arrows on the rocks, and with the most artistic markings painted in red (for the direction of the lighthouse) and white (for the direction home). Between all of the indications I managed to find my way to the lighthouse and more importantly, home.

The trail started out in the forest and fortunately the shade, but the mosquitos were a little ferocious. Eventually the path started up hill and there was some scrambling on the rocks and boulders to a perch high on a hill where you could look over the forest, into the narrows and out to the lake and see there in the distance, the lighthouse. I eventually figured out that the drumming I was hearing was not local indigenous peoples but my heart pounding hard with the exertion. I actually had a moment of considering taking a picture and heading back, with only half the hike done, but I decided to persevere and make it the rest of the way.

The reward was a great view of the lighthouse and a well deserved rest nestled in the smooth rocks of the shoreline. (Also dessert at dinner tonight!). As always the return trip didn’t seem as long. Why is that? And I was back, with lessons learned as usual. Don’t forget the bug spray, sunscreen, water and maybe go early or later, and not in the heat of the day. Sigh. I’m 62. When do you suppose I’ll learn these life lessons.

I was finally able to check in and made my way to my cute little bungalow. It’s just a bedroom and bath, but boy did the bed look comfortable! I looked in the mirror and wondered why on earth the front desk actually gave me a key. I had a streak of mud down my cheek, my hair was practically standing on end from the breeze and my face was a fluorescent pink. Wild man of Borneo comes to mind. Not sure where that expression even comes from.

After a shower and bit of a rest, I headed to the dining room for dinner. I had heard how great the food was, and that boats come up to Killarney just to eat at the Lodge. And they weren’t exaggerating. I had an all fish protein day. I started with smoked trout salad which was just a small portion of fish and lettuce in a nice dressing. Then I had a Canadian Two Fish dinner. Pickerel and Whitefish pan fried, with a sweet potato and wild rice mash, and a kale salad. My reward for the hike was a lemon pound cake with lemon curd and blueberry compote on the side. Yum.

A walk along the narrows was my last treat of the day and now I’m going to really enjoy my luxurious bed in the complete quiet and darkness of the Canadian wilderness.