Another awesome day in the French Quarter

New Orleans, LA

I spent another great day in the French Quarter today. I had hoped to do a walking tour and check out the museum but they weren’t running the walking tours because it was so crowded and the museums were closed because it’s Monday. I should have checked that out before hand because that is so often the case. Oh well.

I grabbed a pastry and tea at Antoine’s Annex on Royal to get my day started after looking at the line up at Cafe du Monde which was my original destination. Probably just as well that I didn’t have more beignets. Then I just wandered the French Quarter, did a little shopping and enjoyed the music on the streets and at a band stand on the Mississippi. The atmosphere is simply electric even early in the day. There is more life and energy in that small area than there is in most large cities. Of course it’s fuelled by a fair bit of alcohol even early in the day.

And today I was even guilty! I stopped at World Famous Pat O’Brien’s. I think every person who responded to my Facebook posting looking for advice on things to do in New Orleans mentioned Pat O’Brien’s so naturally it was a must-do. Pat O’Brien had a speakeasy in the the French Quarter during prohibition but in a different location which he converted into a legitimate business after prohibition was over. Business was good and local people loved to hang out in the little
piano bar.

Eventually, O’Brien realized his business had outgrown their space and he and a partner bought property just down St. Peter Street. The building built in 1791 was originally a theatre but Pat converted it into a bar and patio area. The famous Hurricane drink was created in the 1940’s when whisky, bourbon and scotch were hard to come by and in order to get those alcohols the bar owners were forced to buy more readily available rum. They did some experimenting and came up with the famous drink and served it in a glass that resembles a hurricane lamp, thus the name. New owners gradually bought out Pat O’Brien’s but they kept the same name and lust for good times and built an even larger empire including merchandizing and another location for private parties.

I can personally attest to the potency of 1 Hurricane, but also to the warm and friendly environment. I shared my table with a couple from Oklahoma, Ken and Mary. We spent a great time chatting for over an hour. Nice folks with a passion for the outdoors, hunting and fishing.

I decided I best get out and walk a bit to work off the drink and so wandered up to the Mississippi. The Natchez Paddlewheel boat came back onto the river for today after being in for refurbishing and it’s calliope was playing at the dock to generate interest and in deed it did. It’s sound, created by steam being forced through large whistles, is quite piercing and a bit haunting.

Built in 1975 with the engine from a paddlewheel boat from 1925, the Natchez has been a part of New Orleans history since then. In 1976 she carried Gerald Ford on a campaign tour which ended with a big rally in Jackson Square and in 1988 President George HW Bush arrived at the Republican National Convention aboard the Natchez when New Orleans hosted the convention. After Katrina, the company suffered as tourism struggled like all other companies in New Orleans, but the company sent the Natchez on what they called a “tramping tour” up the Mississippi, doing tours up and down the river, to let the world know that New Orleans was resilient and would be back. It celebrated it’s 40th anniversary last year, and indeed, NO is back. The Natchez also participates in paddlewheel races from time to time to raise funds for local charities. She is undefeated since her first race in 1976.

There was also a great band playing at a band shell on the waterfront. It attracted a large crowd, and toe tapping, and outright dancing were almost irresistible. I stood in the sun, looking out at the Mississippi, grooving to the music as best I could among a crowd that knew how to do that much better than I, but loving every minute of it. I almost missed my late lunch/early dinner reservation I was enjoying my time so much.

But I rushed off to T Paul Louisiana Kitchen (thanks for the suggestion David) on Chartres Street to enjoy yet more great southern food. I had a great shrimp and sausage creole dish that was soooo tasty, with a bit of sweetness rather than a bite. They served little corn bread muffins as well as one with pecans and spices. Unfortunately I didn’t have room for dessert.

Satisfied with a great day I headed home before the parades this evening. I had to once again pass by Bourbon Street on the way to my parking spot, where the craziness factor was creeping up and it was only about 5 pm. There were definitely some interesting sites, and there was some breast baring going on, as well as some butt baring (as you’ll see if you look closely at one of the pictures) but nothing too terribly lewd was obvious. I suspect as darkness came that changed somewhat.

It really has been a great few days. I have to admit to a bit of trepidation and concern about my personal safety coming into New Orleans alone, especially at Mardi Gras time. There certainly are some sketchy areas, and opportunities to get into trouble, but using reasonable common sense, and taking normal precautions (not being ostentatious, carrying only a small amount of cash in a well guarded place, and no credit cards, staying on the main thoroughfares, hanging out with families on the parade route rather than young punks, etc) I didn’t feel unsafe at any time.

I don’t head out tomorrow, but will spend the day getting laundry done, cleaning my house and planning my next steps. At this point I’m not really sure where I’m headed when I leave on Wednesday. North or east. Will see.