The Best Place on Earth

Valemount, Canada

What a great day. I can’t begin to describe and do justice to the amazing scenery I’ve seen today. Tourists travel from far away lands to come and see the breathtaking scenery of our country, and today’s route is right up there on the top of most of their lists. I heard all sorts of languages spoken along the way and several varieties of English. I even ran into a New Zealand couple that I’d chatted with at the hot springs yesterday, at the top of the Jasper Skytram.

Entering Jasper National Park again this morning I travelled some of the road I had taken to the hot springs yesterday, but with different light on it, it all looked new again. Through valleys and over passes and past rivers and lakes, and past cute little tourist cabins, each curve in the road providing a new vista to take in.

My first stop was at the townsite of Jasper. I, along with hoards of others, found a great cafe on the main drag that had awesome sticky buns and I devoured one while reviewing a “What to do in Jasper National Park” brochure. I have been to the Ice Fields several times and since it was 100km each way, out of my way, I decided to do something I hadn’t done before and that was to go up Whistlers Mountain on the Jasper Skytram. It’s located just ten minutes or so south of Jasper and it is named after the marmots who live there and who make a whistling sound when alarmed.

The road up to the Skytram was short and well paved but very narrow and windy. At the parking lot, I was in luck and was able to find a double parking spot to pull into so I didn’t have to do the dreaded backing up. I purchased my “flight” ticket and waited patiently (well, OK, not patiently) for my allotted flight. The cable cars are very small and with only 2 of them running and a 7 minute ride, it took a while to get the crowds up and back down again. The views were of course spectacular. The Jasper Skytram is apparently the highest and longest aerial tramway located in Canada. It was built in 1964 and goes to a height of 2,277 m (7,472 ft) above sea level. Once you get off the tram there is a hike of about 1.5 km to the top of the mountain and I have to admit that I didn’t make it to the top. I gave up about half way up for a plethera of reasons.

I jumped in the car and headed west along the Yellowhead Highway and before too long, there was the marker that my trailer was about to step foot (or wheel) into its 9th province. And as the sign said, “The Best Place on Earth”. Feels like coming home. 🙂

Of course the scenery kept on coming and up next was Mount Robson. I stopped for a lunch break and the compulsory Kodak moment. Mount Robson is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies and rarely are you able to actually see that peak because of clouds or fog. Today we could see most of the mountain, but the peak was clouded over. There were several bus loads of tourists, all looking for that perfect shot and using the limited washrooms.

Not far down the road, I headed onto Highway 5 which heads sound from Highway 16 (which continues on to Prince George). I am overnighting in the town of Valemount, BC. Not far from here, is the genesis of the mighty Fraser River, and in a stream called Swift Creek at the back of the campsite I’m in, there are dozens of Chinook salmon who have made the trek up the Fraser and into the McLennan River to get into this stream to spawn. There is a deep pool where dozens of them wait their turn at the more shallow water up stream in which to spawn. Their attempts are marked by much splashing as they fight against the current to get to that exact spot where they will lay their eggs or fertilize those already laid, only to die immediately after. It’s been 3 months and 1280 km since they left the Pacific Ocean without stopping to eat anything, and they are spent from the voyage.

Not quite as dramatic, but I’m spent from my voyage today, and I believe it’s nap time.